Driveline angle calculator

The wheel well shape.It’s the “Sprinter pantload” sag.Rear spring upgrade or booster needed. #78 FYSA - For anyone finding this thread in weeks/months/years: updated plan is to run a mini leaf pack from VC in the rear to supplement my existing factory springs. That will bump me up 1.25". Then I'll add the Striker kit to all four corners and Agile coil overs in the front. That will put me at 3.25" in the rear, and 3 - 3.5" in the front. VC told me they couldn't guarantee driveline angles wouldn't blow everything up, but by my whiteboard math my driveline angle change will be .75" less than a RIP kit at max height, and even less when I'm running fully loaded for longer bouts on the road. Need to crawl under my van with a jack and angle calculator to confirm, but we just got dumped on with a bunch of snow. #79 We make a 2" lift block for the rear to go under the Agile Springs. Total lift would be ~3.5 to 4" depending on spring rate. I've been writing back and forth about this with VC and Taylor the VC sales guy told me to not use the lift block/spacer that comes with the VC kit with my Agile leaf and wouldn't provide specs for the longer U bolts required to source elsewhere. Seems to be some conflicting info. #80 I've been writing back and forth about this with VC and Taylor the VC sales guy told me to not use the lift block/spacer that comes with the VC kit with my Agile leaf and wouldn't provide specs for the longer U bolts required to source elsewhere. Seems to be some conflicting info. Yeah, Taylor just stopped responding to me (likely out of CYA). They really don't want you to do that and while I can see that it's a bit extreme, I personally am a little annoyed by the level of linear thinking over there. I was told I can't run the mini leaf pack + striker, even though it would just be correcting some

Conditions is your normal operating load. How much your suspension compresses and extends defines the working driveline angle range. This can be extremely important to keep in mind if the vehicle is airbagged. We will take a look at this further into the article (see Step *5).1.) The first step to setting the proper driveline angle is to as align the transmission tailhousing with the pinion. When looking down the tail of the transmission at the pinion yoke, you want the tail to be as vertically and horizontally centered with the pinion yoke as possible. Most of the time, adjusting the transmission is not possible, it simply is where it is. The transmission tailhousing being vertically, horizontally, or both, out of centered alignment with the pinion yoke is often just a reality, and is typically not an issue for 15 degrees or less of misalignment, which is almost always the case for street rods. So you are likely ready to move on to Step 2. However, if you are rebuilding your rod, swapping in a new motor and/or transmission, or making modifications to the transmission crossmember, be sure to align the transmission tailhousing with the pinion. Here is a picture of how a properly centered drive shaft should appear, looking from the rear pinion towards the transmission tailhousing (click on thumbnails for larger image).Notice in the picture the transmission tailhousing / slip yoke sits at ~ -3 degrees:2.) Now use an angle finder to measure the angle of the driveshaft. Notice in the picture the driveshaft sits at 0 degrees.3.) Now use an angle finder to measure the angle of the pinion yoke. The best way to measure this to turn the yoke until one of the flat yoke facets faces the ground, and then place the angle finder on

Being driving height (the extra 2" of stroke to maybe clear a speed bump). That's all fine and great, but what does it mean for the driveline angles? It means that raising the suspension 2" will result in ~ +3 degrees of change in the angle between the transmission tailhousing and driveshaft, and ~ -3 degrees of change in the angle between the driveshaft and pinion yoke. Remember how my transmission tailhousing sits at ~ -3 degrees, and my pinion angle sits at ~ +3 degrees? That means that at ride height, under normal driving conditions, the transmission, driveshaft, and pinion will all be in alignment, and the driveline angles will be 0 degrees. Cool.Hopefully this was informative as a general guide. Cheers. Dude, if you're gonna write TECH make it accurate. The goal is NOT to keep "everything in line" - in actuality you want the rear end and trans in line - preferably you want the driveshaft at a slighlty different angle. Stated another way - you want the working angle bwteen the trans and driveshatf to be the same as the working angle between the driveshaft and the rear end. Having the driveshaft at a slightly different angle is a GOOD thing - it keeps the rollers in the ujoint lubricated. If everything was inline the ujoints don't "work" and fail prematurely. I didn't read past that part........ Could of saved lots of time by just cutting and pasting this: Better. Accurate. More comprehensive. Less static. -Bigchief. well, i think its for real...i mean, shit,,, he is from THERE!!! those folks never lie!nice wagon though....where you from 59 ford....lets all get to know ya!!! I didn't read anything past "You want the transmission, driveshaft, and pinion to be in as straight of a line as possible while